When Bernard Cannac is at work, he can see the middle and southern end of Keuka Lake, including the bluff that clefts the lake into a Y.

When he’s in the vineyard that spreads out before Heron Hill Winery — being able to get his hands on the vines was one of the reasons he wanted to make wines at Heron Hill — he can look back and see the winery itself, “which is really breathtaking.”

“John Ingle should actually charge us for working here because of the view,” said Cannac, his words accented by his native France as he spoke of Heron Hill’s owner.

The winery building and the view from it figure heavily in attracting employees. They’re part of the reason 50,000 visitors stop at the winery just north of Hammondsport, Steuben County, each year.

And they’re what landed Heron Hill on Travel and Leisure magazine’s list of the “10 Most Spectacular Tasting Rooms in the World” last summer. Heron Hill shared that honor with wineries and distilleries in Europe, South America and New Zealand. Oh, and a winery in someplace called Napa Valley made the list, too. more…

Around the World in Eight Wineries Promises Delicious Diversity in Finger Lakes Wine Country

Penn Yan, N.Y. (April 1, 2010) — The eight wineries of the Keuka Lake Wine Trail in Finger Lakes Wine Country, New York, invite visitors to celebrate the delicious diversity of the world’s culinary traditions. Around the World in Eight Wineries, April 17 and 18, will take wine lovers on a worldly excursion of food and wine pairings. Each participating winery will offer a unique and delectable dish from a different country and will pair it with carefully chosen wines.

At their starting winery, ticket holders will receive a complimentary Keuka Lake Wine Trail signature wine glass.  Each winery along the Trail will offer a choice of four sample wines to accompany the cultural dish being served.  Many wineries will feature special offers on selected wines and merchandise.  All ticket holders will also be entered to win a one-night stay for two at the Inn at Esperanza Mansion, a sightseeing cruise aboard the Esperanza Rose and a certificate for one bottle of wine from each of the eight wineries.

“Around the World in Eight Wineries is an ideal opportunity for visitors to increase their understanding of why certain foods pair beautifully with specific styles of wine,” commented Eileen Farnan, president of the Keuka Lake Wine Trail.  “People who attend the event will be among the first to sample and take home newly-released vintages from our great 2009 grape harvest.”

The eight participating wineries include Heron Hill Winery celebrating France, Dr. Konstantin Frank’s Vinifera Wine Cellars celebrating Hungary, Stever Hill Vineyards celebrating the United States, Hunt Country Vineyards celebrating Italy, Keuka Spring Vineyards celebrating Germany, Barrington Cellars celebrating Paraguay, McGregor Vineyard Winery celebrating the Middle East, and Ravines Wine Cellars celebrating Ireland. Event hours are Saturday 10am-5pm and Sunday 11am-5pm.

Advance sale tickets are $25 plus tax per person for a weekend pass, or $19 plus tax per person to attend on Sunday only.  Tickets may be purchased by calling 800.440.4898, logging on to www.KeukaWineTrail.com, or by visiting your local Wegmans.  A limited number of tickets will also be available at the wineries on the days of the event at $30 per person plus tax for a weekend pass, $24 for Sunday only. Listen to the 15-minute podcast about this event at www.snurl.com/v6dk7

Celebrating 23 years of history, diversity and hospitality, The Keuka Lake Wine Trail invites you to visit and discover what sets our destination above all others. The Keuka Lake region is home to the ultimate in wine history. It was here in 1860 that the first bonded winery was established. It was also on Keuka Lake that the first Vinifera vines were planted, sparking a renaissance of world-class winemaking in the Finger Lakes Region.

For information on this event and the Keuka Lake Wine Trail, including upcoming events, contact the Keuka Lake Wine Trail office, 2375 Route 14A, Penn Yan, N.Y. 14527, 800.440.4898 or visit us online at www.KeukaWineTrail.com.

By Jeff Ellis

On Sunday afternoon, a friend and I attended the “Exploring Wine Series: Gewurztraminer” at Damiani Wine Cellars on Seneca Lake in Hector, NY. The event was promoted by Damiani as an opportunity to “Sample 6 wines from New York State and around the world and increase your understanding of the expressions and styles of Gewurztraminer in a side-by-side tasting of this intriguing aromatic white wine.” When I discovered that the seating was limited to 14 people, I decided this would be a great chance to learn about Gewurztraminer in a small classroom setting. It was much more than that. We were treated like family, made new friends with fellow wine enthusiasts, and learned about our own tasting preferences and skills.

Upon entering, we were graciously greeted by Amy Cheatle, Tasting Room Manager, and shown to our seats at a large table covered with wine glasses and an assortment of bread, cheeses, peppered salami, and pate. Glenn Allen, a partner in Damiani Wine Cellars, instructed us on how to conduct our blind tasting of six glasses of wine and encouraged us to take notes. We were also given a short glossary of terms to help us describe the wines. We tasted wine from: Alsace, France; Washington, USA; Robertson, South Africa; Pfalz, Germany; and Finger Lakes, USA. The variety in styles of Gewurztraminer wine is as different as the locations the wine comes from.

Gewurztraminer is often thought of as only a dessert wine. I was surprised to discover that drier Gewurztraminer wines can actually pair well with a wide variety of food. We tasted wines that pair well with not just desserts and cheeses, but rich poultry dishes and moderately spiced Asian-style foods, as well. I was quite surprised to taste drier Gewurztraminer wines that can even pair well with smoked and spicy red meats. Most of the other event participants were as surprised to discover this as I was.

Participants ranged from wine enthusiasts, to a chemical engineer who hosts a wine and beer blog, to a wine server from another Finger Lakes winery, to a Finger Lakes winemaker from the Cayuga Lake Wine Trail. Four participants traveled from Elmira, three traveled from Ithaca, and the others traveled from within 30 minutes of Damiani Wine Cellars.

Talking about our tasting discoveries with fellow wine lovers from various backgrounds and locations was a great experience. Our host, Glenn Allen, did a great job of leading the group in discussions of what we were experiencing in each wine. Most of the two hours at Damiani was spent doing just that. Glenn also discussed the nuances of microclimates and winemaking methods. This was a unique experience for most and a very interesting experience for all. Jim Touschner, a guest from Elmira, stated, “I lived here my whole life and this is the first time I had a chance to taste wine like this.”

In the second part of the tasting we tried to match each wine with its corresponding wine label and tasting notes. This really put our skills to the test, and helped me to understand more about my personal preferences and what I taste in a wine.

Glenn also treated us to a taste of an excellent Gewurztraminer from Chile and, to the surprise of us all, a barrel tasting of the Damiani Wine Cellars 2009 Gewurztraminer.

We asked Glenn what inspired him to host this unique event. He replied, “The best way to taste differences is to have them lined up in front of you. I used to do this with friends and family and decided to do it for everyone. It is a fun way for people to drink wine and learn.” I could not agree more.

The next event in the Damiani Wine Cellars‘ Exploring Wine Series will be held on Sunday, March 28, 2010 and will be featuring Chardonnay wine. Future events in this series will be held on the last Sunday of each month through June 2010. Contact Damiani Wine Cellars at info@damianiwinecellars.com or 607-546-5557. http://damianiwinecellars.com

Compare and contrast different vintages and learn how the growing season and the grape itself lend each year a distinctive personality. Learn from Winemaker Dave Breeden what makes the production of Ice Wine a time intensive, yet worthwhile, tradition.

Experience Ice Wines with a variety of diverse foods. Small food pairings to be provided will showcase ice wine’s rare and exquisite versatility. You’ll see that ice win not just for dessert!

4 Separate Seatings Featuring the RIESLING or CABERNET FRANC Varietal:

11am, Riesling

12:30pm, Cabernet Franc

2pm, Riesling

3:30pm, Cabernet Franc

Cost: $20 per person/per seating – $30 per person for 2 seatings, one of Riesling, one of Cabernet Franc

Reserve your seat and ask questions by calling {607} 532-9401 extension 106. You may also email events@sheldrakepoint.com. Otherwise, seating is first come, first serve.

Sheldrake Point Winery and Simply Red Bistro

State police say 28-year-old Thomas Wulff of Lebanon and 27-year-old Michael Wulff of Towanda were charged with felony assault after last weekend’s altercation at the Three Brothers Winery in the Finger Lakes town of Fayette, about 35 miles southwest of Syracuse.

Troopers say the brothers were part of a group and were in the winery’s tasting room Saturday afternoon when the owner asked them to leave for being too intoxicated and disruptive.

Police say the Wulffs punched and kicked the owner, breaking a bone near his eye. The injured owner’s name hasn’t been released.

They were released on bail and are due back in court March 3. Their lawyer, Joseph Joch (YAH’ck), did not immediately return a call.

Copyright © 2010 The Associated Press. All rights reserved

http://www.google.com/hostednews/ap/article/ALeqM5ixbgg6dVqoDjkT2g9TahefDgMnkwD9DU5MQO2

1 ½ cups chicken broth
1 cup water
1 green bell pepper, chopped
¾ (14.5 oz) can diced tomatoes, drained
¾ (15 oz) can whole kernel corn, drained
½ teaspoon garlic salt
¼ teaspoon cayenne pepper
¼ teaspoon paprika
1 tablespoon vegetable oil
1 leek, chopped
1 clove garlic, chopped
½ (15 oz) can black beans

Mix the broth and water in a pot, and bring to a boil. Stir in the green bell pepper, tomatoes, and corn. Season with garlic salt, cayenne pepper, and paprika. Reduce heat to low, and simmer 10 minutes. Transfer ½ the mixture to a blender, blend until smooth, and return to pot.

Heat the oil in a skillet over medium heat. Stir in the leek and garlic, and cook 5 minutes, until tender. Transfer to blender. Place black beans and about ½ cup of soup into blender. Blend until smooth. Mix into the soup, and continue cooking 10 minutes, until heated through.

Attendees of the event remarked that it was hard to choose which chili to vote for and it became obvious when the votes were tabulated and the Ovid Chili won in a close count. When asked about his chili recipe, Billy Ose replied, “ Well, I don’t measure anything, but I know it tastes good.” Ingredients included ground beef, tomatoes, black, kidney and chili beans, jalapeno, red and green peppers, onions and seasonings. Each chef paired their chili with Knapp Wine. Ovid paired their chili with Pasta Red Reserve, and 2008 Riesling. Other wines paired with other chilis included, Pasta Red, Sangiovese, Merlot and Seyval Blanc.

Knapp Winery & Vineyard Restaurant is known for its super premium wines produced from some of the oldest vines in the Finger Lakes region. Knapp is located on the west side of Cayuga Lake. Contact Knapp Winery at 800.869.9271 or www.knappwine.com, Facebook -Knapp Winery & Vineyard Restaurant.

Benches on Parade

The benches will be displayed all across the Greater Rochester and Finger Lakes area starting in May and at the end of the summer, the benches will be auctioned off to the highest bidder. A portion of the auction proceeds will benefit Nazareth College Arts Center, Rochester City Ballet, the New York Wine & Culinary Center and an additional non-profit of the high-bidder’s choice.

Owner and grape grower, John Ingle, is thrilled to have Rolling Stone’s past artist designing Heron Hill’s bench. “Everyone that participates in this community project benefits,” he said. “It’s a win, win, win.”

Heron Hill Winery has generously donated to over 50 great causes and organizations including: Ducks Unlimited, Palate Press Wine Auction for Haiti, Camp Good Days, Golisano Children’s Hospital, PBS, Tanglewood Nature Center, Breast Cancer Coalition of Rochester, Relay for Life, Historical Society, Red Cross, Juvenile Diabetes Foundation, United Way, SPCA, March of Dimes and Museum of Natural History.

For more information about Heron Hill Winery, one of Travel & Leisure’s ten most spectacular tasting rooms, visit www.heronhill.com.

The Finger Lakes, Day 2: The Old Guard Learns New Tricks

While the three places I visited today were all located near each other along the eastern side of Seneca Lake, I didn’t realize how interwoven they are, both to each other as well as to the fabric of the Finger Lakes wine industry itself. Phil Davis, 57, and Lou Damiani, 52, are lifelong friends, each with 30-plus years experience in Finger Lakes agriculture. Their respective family farms now supply the grapes for Damiani Wine Cellars.

Rob Thomas, 54, considers Davis his mentor, even though his own tenure in the area also dates back to the early 1980s, when he ran a farm for the Taylor Wine Company before moving on to Rolling Vineyards (the winery that pre-dated Atwater Estate) followed by Chateau Lafayette Reneau and then helping to start Lamoreaux Landing in the early 1990s. All the while, Thomas was squirreling away enough money to get his own place. He now owns and runs Shalestone, an all-red wine winery producing just 1,500 cases a year.

And then there’s Sam Argetsinger, 58, a part-Iroquois local, who spent 40 years in the woods as a logger before realizing he was destined to extend the grapegrowing tradition on his family farm, a property that has grown grapes since the late 19th century.

All are members of the generation that could be excused from joining the quality push, having come of age in the Finger Lakes when quantity reigned over quality. Yet all have seen the future that vinifera brings. And rather than shy away from vinifera’s related qualitative requirement of low yields, they’ve embraced it.

Davis, Damiani, Thomas and Argetsinger are a treasure trove of experience and information. A quartet of 50-plus-year-olds, this group has plenty of new tricks to teach others. Quietly, they’re helping to bridge the gap that has existed here between grower and winemaker, pushing winemakers to produce better wines while pulling growers to farm better grapes.

Atwater Estate has Vinny from Queens. Damiani Wine Cellars has Lou from Brooklyn. Lou Damiani moved to the area as a young child with his family in the early 1960s, and has been in the fruit and grapegrowing business since the 1970s. Winemaking was a natural extension.

“It’s pretty much developed into an obsessive passion,” said Damiani, whose first commercial vintage with his own label was 2003. Located in a small two-story white house right on Route 414, just south of Tichenor Road, Damiani and his lifelong friend and fellow grapegrower Phil Davis are focusing primarily on reds, a decision that puts them in the minority in the Finger Lakes, where Riesling has risen to prominence.

“Because that’s our palate and we’re two pretty stubborn guys,” said Lou, who talks in an almost perpetual half laugh. “We want to prove we can make reds up here. I like Riesling, but I think it’s been pushed too much, frankly, in terms of the other grapes that are grown here.”

“You’ve got to have an ideal spot for reds though,” said Davis, who mostly plays the straight man to Damiani’s constantly bubbling persona, though he has a quick, dry wit that flashes at times. “We’re so on the edge climate-wise for reds, it’s got to be the right spot,” he said.
Photograph of Davis fruit stand by James Molesworth

Grapegrower Phil Davis’ family has been growing fruit and grapes in the area for six generations.

Both talk fondly of the Finger Lakes’ pastoral history, when grapegrowing was easy as the big wine companies provided a pressure-free selling environment. But both have embraced the new challenge of growing and making wines themselves, with an emphasis on quality. Davis talks about nearby fields that were particularly good for sledding as a child, before they were eventually planted to orchards, grapes or other crops.

Today, Damiani’s 10 acres and Davis’ 6 acres of vines form the backbone for the winery’s 4,500-case production, which focuses on Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Merlot, along with Pinot Noir, a new Syrah as well as small amounts of Riesling, Pinot Gris and Sauvignon Blanc. But the duo still buy in grapes for about half the production, a fairly common practice in the area, which is still developing its vineyard base.

“The glacial till has left so many pockets of differing soils, so there are certain sites that produce stuff you just can’t get from your own estate,” said Davis, as we walk down the steep slopes of one of their parcels. (See the accompanying video.)

But to ensure quality, Davis and Damiani try to dictate as much of the viticulture as they can with their growers, sometimes buying by the acre rather than ton. It’s an approach that’s in the minority, but growing, as the amount of vinifera grapes has risen steadily, forcing growers to compete on quality as demand only inches up.

“Plus, we’re still young in terms of the business, so it’s taken a while for us to establish credibility with the growers,” said Davis. “But growers are definitely starting to understand it’s a way to establish a relationship with someone that will be there year in and year out.”

As with other small, vinifera-focused wineries in the region, Damiani is seeing a new customer base coming through the tasting room.

“Our customers are generally young people who seem to really care about what they’re eating and drinking and where it comes from,” said Damiani.
Photograph of Damiani grapes by James Molesworth

Though there’s the occasional hiccup, the lineup at Damiani is more consistent than not, with the reds showing nice dark fruit flavors and good tannic spines, without being overly leafy or crisp, as many Finger Lake reds are. The Riesling, sourced from Argetsinger fruit, is dry and nervy in style. A new Syrah (just 20 cases to start) is Damiani’s and Davis’ new pride and joy. It’s peppery and lively, though lacking the flesh and depth of the Bordeaux varietals produced here. But it’s part of the fun mix at Damiani, where experimentation is actually being fueled (rather than stifled) by experience.